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In the ever-evolving landscape of Tokyo, there has been a remarkable surge in the number of eateries and food establishments catering to the halal dietary requirements. This culinary boom has significantly widened the range of dining options available to Muslims in Japan, be it for tourists or residents, while also captivating adventurous Japanese individuals keen on exploring new flavors.
The Intersection of Ramen and Devotion
With the return of inbound tourists to Japan, a ramen shop located near the bustling Asakusa district, right in front of Naka-Okachimachi station, has become a favorite haunt for international visitors. Ayam-ya, a branch of a Kyoto-based chain renowned for its flavorful white chicken broth, stands out due to its unique feature—a small space designated for Muslim guests to perform their five daily prayers. Moreover, everything on Ayam-ya’s menu is halal, adhering to the dietary guidelines followed by practicing Muslims.
Curious about the concept of halal food, I posed the question to Saifullah, the owner of the shop, who arrived in Japan from Sri Lanka over six years ago. In fluent Japanese, Saifullah, a devout Muslim, explained, “Halal is not merely about food; it encompasses a way of life. In Islam, behavior is divided into two categories—halal for proper conduct and haram for improper behavior. By abstaining from haram actions such as theft and violence and conducting ourselves in a righteous manner, Allah, our God, will watch over us and reward us in the afterlife.”
Initially taken aback by the shift away from food, I gradually grasped the connection between halal and haram, which illuminated the broader perspective. Saifullah further elucidated, “As Muslims, we follow the principles of halal even in our dietary choices because good health is an integral part of leading a virtuous life. In other words, we avoid haram food that Allah has deemed harmful. While pork and alcohol are the most well-known forbidden items, even chicken, for instance, is not halal unless it is slaughtered and bled properly, in the name of Allah.”
Ayam-ya has garnered popularity not only among Muslims residing in Japan and Muslim tourists but also among non-Muslim tourists and Japanese locals, particularly ramen enthusiasts. This phenomenon is not unrelated to the concept of halal. Ayam-ya’s ramen, crafted from halal ingredients, not only caters to dietary restrictions but also appeals to health-conscious individuals due to its absence of additives. Consequently, an increasing number of non-Muslims are gravitating toward halal food as part of their pursuit of mindful dining choices.
Halal-Friendly Haven: Tokyo’s Shin-Ōkubo, Japan’s Largest Halal Shopping Street
Nestled in front of Shin-Ōkubo station in Shinjuku, Tokyo, lies Japan’s most expansive halal shopping street, known as Isuramu yokochō or “Islam Alley.” This vibrant locale echoes with unfamiliar languages and is adorned with shops offering a diverse array of spices, vegetables, and meats not commonly found in Japanese supermarkets, imbuing it with an unmistakably foreign ambiance.
Towards the end of the previous decade, this area began attracting a growing number of Muslim residents and subsequently became home to various shops offering halal food and ingredients from Asian nations like Nepal, India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan. A visit to Siddique National Mart, a store affiliated with Pakistan, offered a glimpse into the firm establishment of halal food within Japan.
Mian Ramzan Siddique, the owner of Siddique National Mart, hailing from Pakistan, arrived in Japan 28 years ago. In those
days, he recognized Japan’s prosperous economy as a fertile ground for his business ventures and opened a Pakistani restaurant called Siddique Palace, which eventually expanded to 26 locations.
However, when the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011 struck, many of the restaurants were forced to shut down as their chefs returned to their home countries. Refusing to abandon Japan, Siddique embarked on a quest to deepen his local roots. He began cultivating rice and cassava in Kisarazu, Chiba Prefecture, alongside running a farm and seafood restaurant. Notably, Siddique’s National Mart in Shin-Ōkubo also stocks Japanese-style bread—a rarity in halal food shops.
Fujinami Yasuo, a baker from Kisarazu, supplies bread to National Mart. Through his interactions with Siddique, he witnessed firsthand the struggles faced by Muslims in Japan. Inspired by Siddique’s unwavering enthusiasm to introduce delicious-looking Japanese bread to Muslims, especially children, Yasuo commenced the production of halal bread.
After the advent of halal ramen, which has ceased to be an anomaly, the emergence of halal bread appears to be the next significant development.
Giant Supermarket in an Immense Residential Complex
As the Muslim population in Japan steadily grows, now reaching 200,000 non-Japanese and 50,000 Japanese citizens, the country witnessed the inauguration of its first large-scale halal supermarket in 2020, situated in Misato, Saitama Prefecture. Bongo Bazar, located within the renowned Misato Danchi apartment complex, stands out as a beacon of culinary diversity, encompassing not only Japanese food items but also ingredients from various Asian nations, akin to a “world’s fair of food.” The store segregates its displays predominantly into “Japan” and “the rest of the world,” with aisles dedicated to different countries such as Turkey, Indonesia, and Thailand. Bongo Bazar boasts an extensive selection of spices, dates (essential for Ramadan nourishment), generous cuts of goat meat, and even scarlet banana flowers, presenting an assortment of intriguing and unfamiliar sights.
Clearly labeled shelves help customers identify items as “halal,” “Muslim friendly,” or “non-halal,” while the diligent staff strives to minimize confusion among shoppers.
Beyond its vast selection, Bongo Bazar’s allure extends to its captivating interior decoration, reminiscent of the immensely popular variety shop, Don Quijote, known for its unique displays. Shop manager Minowa Ken acknowledges, “To be honest, we stock many products that Japanese customers may not fully understand. However, we embrace this lack of familiarity and arrange the store in a way that enables everyone to enjoy the experience.”
True to Minowa’s words, the shop overflows with colorful imagery and catchy slogans. A sign near the entrance reads, “Yōkoso! Miwaku no wakusei Bongo Bazaaru e!” meaning “Welcome! To the captivating world of Bongo Bazar!” The speakers within play the Indiana Jones theme song, further enhancing the immersive ambiance.
Embracing the Encounter with the Unknown
Bongo Bazar’s approach stems from owner Badal Chaklader’s desire to “portray an authentic image of Muslims, who are often misunderstood.” Chaklader, a Bangladeshi Muslim, nurtured the dream of opening a large-scale halal supermarket for nearly a decade. However, he envisioned more than just a vast store; he aimed to create a space where Japanese and Muslim communities could interact freely.
“That was the point. If we observe the shops in Shin-Ōkubo, for instance, we see that most customers are foreign-born Muslims, predominantly men. There are few women customers. I wanted to establish a shop where
Japanese people and Muslims, especially women, could shop together.”
Bongo Bazar materialized as an embodiment of Chaklader’s vivid imagination.
The store welcomes women in burqas alongside local families, all shopping with smiles on their faces. Manager Minowa’s thoughtful approach also attracts many Japanese residents from the Misato Danchi apartment complex.
Chaklader beams with joy as he expresses, “At Bongo Bazar, we offer products that can’t be found elsewhere, attracting Muslim customers from Nagano, Gunma, Ibaraki, and Tochigi. Many people express their desire for a similar shop in their vicinity. Japanese customers, too, display interest in foreign ingredients, not limited to Japanese fare, often seeking guidance on how to incorporate various spices in their cooking. If we had more establishments like this, I believe it would foster greater understanding that Muslims are just like anyone else.”
Quietly but surely, cultures are merging through the medium of halal food in various locales.
